I should have written this article long time ago – as a friend of mine
pointed out, in a way, having started this blog with a post about Lisbon does
not properly honour my proud origins as a Porto born and raised. Nevertheless,
better later than never, so here it goes for a couple of friends from Paris
that are visiting the city in the coming week.
In the last couple of years, Porto (World Heritage Site by UNESCO since 1996) has been on the spotlight as a must
go, trendy destination. As a result, there is plenty of good information
available on the web. However, embodying the spirit of this blog, I will try to
add my personnel touch.
Day 1
Morning
Porto centre is mostly within walking distance, so I recommend you start
with a walking tour in the most central point in town – Avenida dos Aliados – following
this recommended path.
Dedicate sometime to appreciate the neoclassic façades of Avenida dos Aliados where the city hall is located and where even Mc Donalds is worth checking out.
If you follow the path, you get to Mercado do Bolhao (Mon-Fri 07:00-17:00 Sat 07:00-13:00), historical market where you will experience the real Porto - make sure you pass by A Perola do Bolhao which represents a terrific example of traditional commerce from the middle of last century.
You will also pass by Capelas das Almas which is well worth checking out.
If you fancy a quick coffee and nata (traditional custard) this is a good place to stop.
From here reach Santa Catarina street which is a traditional shopping spot for the locals - specially crowded on Christmas. Walk through the street and make sure you stop by the Magestic Cafe, a magnificent example of the Belle Epoque architecture considered by some as one of the most beautiful cafes in the world.
From here walk to Praca dos Poveiros where you can stop for a quick lunch in the typical 'tasco' (Portuguese word for a sort of tabern) Casa Guedes. Near by you will also find a good alternative for a more heavy meal - eLeBe Baixa.
Afternoon
After lunch follow the following path down the hill in the direction to Sao Bento train station - also considered by many (you will get this a lot in Porto) as one of the most beautiful train stations in the world. Make sure you get inside where you will be able to enjoy the beautiful azulejos.
Go through the historical centre in the direction to Palacio da Bolsa - on the way you will pass by Mercado Ferreira Borges which is worth a quick look. Palacio da Bolsa (November to March: Mon-Sun 09:00-12:30 and 14:00 - 17:30 - April to October: Mon-Sun 09:00-18:30) is an absolute must see specially the Arabic Room.
Once you done you will find around the corner another city pearl - the Sao Francisco Church also well worth the visit.
From there it will be a short walk to the wonderful medieval district of Cais da Ribeira. This is a great place to stop by, have a coffee and enjoy the view over the river and the magnificent masterpiece from Gustave Eiffel - D Luis I bridge.
Recommendations for Dinner
Recommendations for Bars will be covered in the Nigh life section in the end - Porto surely deserves one!
Day 2
Morning
Head through the following path to Igreja dos Clerigos - the master piece from Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni - and considered to be the city symbol. It is worth to climb the tower as you will get one of the best views the city has to offer. From here go to Livraria Lello - elected by many including The Guardion newspaper as one of the best in the world.
From here walk to Jardins do Palacio de Cristal. The gardens are beautiful and the view over the river, Arrabida bridge and the Atlantic ocean are well worth the visit. On the way back pass through Miguel Bombarda street where you can find a number of art galleries and interesting shops.
A good place for a quick lunch would be the A Sandeira.
Afternoon
On the afternoon I recommend that you head back - through the following path - to Ribeira, cross D Luis I bridge into Vila Nova de Gaia and go for a visit in one of the many Porto Wine Houses next to the river front.
Most of the tours are paid, but you have a couple of free ones well worth it - Taylor's would be my recommendation particularly due to the view over Porto while you enjoy the precious liquid (they usually provide free samples). Ferreirinha, Sandeman, Graham's are also a good paid alternative and the tour guide will take you through the history and production process within the ancient cellars where many barrels are stored (Taylor's tour in comparison will be smaller). In the end you will also have samples included as part of the entrance fee.
From here, I would suggest you head to Miradouro da Serra do Pilar for one of the best city views in the world - it is particularly impressive during the sunset.
From here you can either cross the bridge -through the upper lane - back to Porto or decide to have dinner in Vila Nova de Gaia in the river front turned to Porto.
Restaurants in the river front are a tourist oriented but the view is worth it and later on you will find a number of bars around. On this basis, I would recommend:
If you decide to head back to Porto centre then Restaurante Abadia do Porto is a good dinning option.
You will find a quality Francesinha here - as in many other places - which is a mandatory traditional dish in Porto regarded by many international publications as one of the best sandwiches in the world. Just don't get fooled, this is not a sandwich as you would expect, so make sure you come with plenty of appetite.
Day 3
Morning
Walk to the remnants of the old city walls (not very well known but worth it). The view over the bridge is unique and a great place to stop for a morning coffee in one of the very local cafes/bars. From here walk to the Cathedral (Se) and from there lose yourself through the claustrophobic streets/paths within the heritage centre down to Ribeira and from there back to Sao Bento train station.
Afternoon
Catch the subway and go to Boavista district to visit Casa da Musica (Opera House) - specially from outside. For Lunch you have two very interesting options on the area: Casinha Boutique Cafe or a short walk to Mercado do Bom Sucesso - which in conjunction with Mercado do Bolhao - is the one of the biggest markets in the town.
Once you done, get on a bus from here down Avenida da Boavista (the longest avenue in Europe) on the direction to Castelo do Queijo (in front of the Atlantic Ocean). Here you will be able to get terrific views over the ocean and walk through Foz and Parque da Cidade - one of the best urban parks in the world and one of the few in front of the ocean.
Once you done, get on a bus from here down Avenida da Boavista (the longest avenue in Europe) on the direction to Castelo do Queijo (in front of the Atlantic Ocean). Here you will be able to get terrific views over the ocean and walk through Foz and Parque da Cidade - one of the best urban parks in the world and one of the few in front of the ocean.
This is a great spot to see the sunset while enjoying a drink. This is also a great area to enjoy good fish in one of the many Matosinhos restaurants directly sourced from the lota - fish market.
This is also a good area to try one of the best Francesinhas in town on Cafe Requinte.
Day 4
There are still plenty of things to cover your time:
Take a day tour up the Douro valley into the region where Porto wine is produced. This is an unique place recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage since 2001. This is a strongly recommended experience specially if you don't have a rainy day.
If you really fancy modern art, then Fundacao Serralves is a great place to go. The gardens are also well worth a visit.
To finalize, many friends wouldn't forgive me if I wouldn't include a reference to the magnificent Dragon stadium, home for the FC Porto club - no introductions required really!
Night life
Porto developed plenty of vibrant and trendy offers over the last years in this space.
Here it goes a list of some of the best bars and clubs in the centre - most of them in the Clerigos area (Garelia de Paris, Rua Candido dos Reis and Rua Conde Vizela)
Aduela Taberna Bar (really interesting)
The following website contains some interesting information worth checking.
Photos from Carlos Pinto
